Days fade quietly to night as thoughts only now begin to fall on what it is we've experienced. We wake with morning lacking ambitions, no longer craving to wear shoes thin, but simply to revel in a dreamer's life that has become our own. Four feet drag along taking in the sunny hills of Rishikesh, but hearts and minds rest elsewhere and a complete experience here is not to be. With all but one slice of the pizza gone, who can stuff it down? It's how you feel at the end of things; a calming acceptance of the inevitable and oh, what a fight it was! Not of fear, not of failure, nor of success - but questions to be understood when bags unpack and clothes lay folded. An adventure stands to be ended and what was once life, passion, awe, morning, night - slowly ages, becoming sepia projections of fireside tales. I've got some slides of my India trip from 20 years ago, have a beer and I'll fill you in. Facts, thrilling and mundane, slide haphazardly into the pit of memory to be jumbled and forgotten, remembered and created, told straight then fictionalized. "My fish was 13 inches no 2 feet no a whopper that pulled down the ship on that stormy sea, lucky I made it." Impossible stories for the habitually dormant. Still at the end, knowing what is to become of your reality, even seeing ghosts of it emerge as you frolick in graves, you find yourself not regretting times passing but admiring how it did.
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The Taj Mahal.
It's funny how certain images defy ignorance and permeate the collective subconscious. Though you've most likely never seen the pyramids or studied Egyptology, you know they stand, where they stand, who built them, etc. They're a memory you have without ever experiencing them. They're built for the stuff of legends and like all legends uncovered they may just disappoint (they don't, but they could).
I've known of the Taj Mahal as far as I can remember. I don't know why. My father wasn't telling me stories of fanciful India, he was busy trying to remember the story he began to tell me, that he's already told me 20 times, that if I hadn't the patience I'd sit him on my lap and tell him the story of his youth. No, I knew of the Taj Mahal before I knew there actually was an India. Why? I don't know, I just did. And, having known about it for so long, knowing vaguely of "love's greatest triumph", I reluctantly train'd to Agra from Varanasi expecting the nastiness of disappointment.
It was dawn and I hadn't slept. The sky was clear as the sun rose promising 3 hours of perfect photos. If I was to be shattered than through my camera I'd make it seem that legends live.
When I stood before it, after paying that outrageous foreigner entrance fee, I found myself not as a hero maintaining a child's belief in Santa Clause but irrelevant and unable to capture the reality of the Taj Mahal. The Taj Mahal isn't just seen, it is felt. I was awestruck, like some teeny bopper tongue tied and tearing when Johnny Cool Guitar gives her a kiss. Nothing I can do here, no photo, no anecdote, will ever have you understand the presence of the Taj Mahal. The only advice I give you is to go. Sorry, but there's no other way to understand.
-sam
Monday, April 13, 2009
Friday, April 10, 2009
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Darjeeling Death Drive
There is always a price to pay!
India has taught us that lesson well, and we have learnt that the nicest things come at the highest price.
Darjeeling has been our favorite part of India by far, and with good reason, the Darjeeling district in the Shiwalik Hills at an average elevation of 6,982 ft offers the best views, smells, air, & teas. It's height truly separates it from the rest of India, making it feel like a country of its own, but the downfall is that getting there is always tricky!
We had to ride the narrow, rocky, unmaintained, steep mountain roads to Darjeeling three times, in a jeep FULL of people. Every single time I almost pooped my pants, literally these were the most terrifying road experiences I have ever had.
Trip 1:
Our 1st jeep experience was on the way from New Jalpaiguri Train station to Darjeeling. Practically everyone that visits Darjeeling come via this train station and takes some form of vehicle (jeep, car, bus) up the hilly mountain roads. The 1st trip actually wasn't that bad in comparison to the other trips to come, but at the time I didn't know that and I grabbed the seat in front of me the entire 3 hour ride up. Now it should be noted that it is only 80 km/ 50 miles from the train station, but it is important to drive very slowly when you are driving on the edge of the scariest cliff, on a road that looks like it was constructed in 1918, with a jeep carrying 12 people. So I held my breath the entire way, didn't look out the window, and tried to forget I read in the lonely planet that 100, 000 people died in car accidents in India last year.
Trip 2: Here is where things get crazy!
The last day of our trek put us in Rimbick, which is where all people end their trek. After that you all jeep back to Darjeeling together, I just had no idea we were all going in one car. We rode a jeep the size of your average mini van with 16 on the inside, and 8 on the outside. By the outside, I mean exactly that - well mostly they stayed on the roof, but there were a few just kinda dangling off the side. In total we had one jeep carrying 24 people, plus all our bags, on the skinniest road (clearly designed for one way, but people drive whatever way they want) on the edge of a mountain cliff. I kid you not there were some corners where we came way too close to tipping right over. The engine sounded like it was having a heart attack, and these Sherpas on the roof are just dancing around up there, or just climbing around the outside of the car while it was moving. One guy almost stepped on Sam's hand because it was resting on the window ledge and he decided to take a walk around the car, using the widow as one of his steps. At one point we were driving through one of the many villages and one of the roof Sherpas kicked some guy on the side of the road in the face, I am not sure if it was an accident? Anyways the guy who got kicked decided to grab the Sherpa by the leg, and try to pull him down... Not really a good thing to do on a moving vehicle...???
This all sounds crazy, but don't worry we at least figured out this kind of nonsense car loading is illegal, when the police showed up the Sherpas just took off and hide in the trees and the driver stopped at this random spot down the road to pick them up, they all hopped back onto the roof and away we went.
Trip 3: Was from Darjeeling back to New Jalpaiguri and would have been fine cause I was getting quite used to feeling my heart in my throat, but they go ahead and put a frigging teenager in the driving seat! A teenage BOY I should add, he couldn't have been more than 18 - MAX! And he drove like a teenager too, way too fast, and way to close to hitting all the other cars. I wasn't even scared for myself this time, but could not get over the fact that the front seat passenger was a husband and wife holding there 1year old daughter in their arms. I mean it's bad enough that none of us have seat belts, but at least give the child a car seat for the love of cheese!
Very lucky for us! We made through all of this alive, and I hope hope hope it is a long long tie before I go ahead an tempt fate that much again.
More stories to come, don't do what we would do...
M.
India has taught us that lesson well, and we have learnt that the nicest things come at the highest price.
Darjeeling has been our favorite part of India by far, and with good reason, the Darjeeling district in the Shiwalik Hills at an average elevation of 6,982 ft offers the best views, smells, air, & teas. It's height truly separates it from the rest of India, making it feel like a country of its own, but the downfall is that getting there is always tricky!
We had to ride the narrow, rocky, unmaintained, steep mountain roads to Darjeeling three times, in a jeep FULL of people. Every single time I almost pooped my pants, literally these were the most terrifying road experiences I have ever had.
Trip 1:
Our 1st jeep experience was on the way from New Jalpaiguri Train station to Darjeeling. Practically everyone that visits Darjeeling come via this train station and takes some form of vehicle (jeep, car, bus) up the hilly mountain roads. The 1st trip actually wasn't that bad in comparison to the other trips to come, but at the time I didn't know that and I grabbed the seat in front of me the entire 3 hour ride up. Now it should be noted that it is only 80 km/ 50 miles from the train station, but it is important to drive very slowly when you are driving on the edge of the scariest cliff, on a road that looks like it was constructed in 1918, with a jeep carrying 12 people. So I held my breath the entire way, didn't look out the window, and tried to forget I read in the lonely planet that 100, 000 people died in car accidents in India last year.
Trip 2: Here is where things get crazy!
The last day of our trek put us in Rimbick, which is where all people end their trek. After that you all jeep back to Darjeeling together, I just had no idea we were all going in one car. We rode a jeep the size of your average mini van with 16 on the inside, and 8 on the outside. By the outside, I mean exactly that - well mostly they stayed on the roof, but there were a few just kinda dangling off the side. In total we had one jeep carrying 24 people, plus all our bags, on the skinniest road (clearly designed for one way, but people drive whatever way they want) on the edge of a mountain cliff. I kid you not there were some corners where we came way too close to tipping right over. The engine sounded like it was having a heart attack, and these Sherpas on the roof are just dancing around up there, or just climbing around the outside of the car while it was moving. One guy almost stepped on Sam's hand because it was resting on the window ledge and he decided to take a walk around the car, using the widow as one of his steps. At one point we were driving through one of the many villages and one of the roof Sherpas kicked some guy on the side of the road in the face, I am not sure if it was an accident? Anyways the guy who got kicked decided to grab the Sherpa by the leg, and try to pull him down... Not really a good thing to do on a moving vehicle...???
This all sounds crazy, but don't worry we at least figured out this kind of nonsense car loading is illegal, when the police showed up the Sherpas just took off and hide in the trees and the driver stopped at this random spot down the road to pick them up, they all hopped back onto the roof and away we went.
Trip 3: Was from Darjeeling back to New Jalpaiguri and would have been fine cause I was getting quite used to feeling my heart in my throat, but they go ahead and put a frigging teenager in the driving seat! A teenage BOY I should add, he couldn't have been more than 18 - MAX! And he drove like a teenager too, way too fast, and way to close to hitting all the other cars. I wasn't even scared for myself this time, but could not get over the fact that the front seat passenger was a husband and wife holding there 1year old daughter in their arms. I mean it's bad enough that none of us have seat belts, but at least give the child a car seat for the love of cheese!
Very lucky for us! We made through all of this alive, and I hope hope hope it is a long long tie before I go ahead an tempt fate that much again.
More stories to come, don't do what we would do...
M.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Dry but use the Imagination
Trekking is the name of the game when it comes to backpackers making their way to Darjeeling, 2100m (meters) up there.
The former northeastern hill station of the British empire, recognized early on as the perfect place for a sanatorium, hosts the highest altitude tea plantations in the world and breathtaking views of the Himalayas - if you're granted clear skies. Oddly distinct from its fellow West Bengal city, Kolkata, there's little left to wonder why the majority population in the hills seek separate statehood. Sharing little in common, if anything at all, with the Bengali majority of West Bengal, the Nepalese centered culture of the Hills has sought political identity through the Ghorkaland movement leading to civil unrest that sadly lead to violence on more than one occasion. Fueled by Nepali immigrants via the Indo-Nepali Treaty of 1950, the distrust of their Bengali statesmen in Kolkata, and the flexible histories of the Hills, Darjeeling, along with surrounding areas, have become a hot bed of political unrest that perennially try the Democratic ideal of Self Determination. Despite the controversies, Darjeeling remains a vacationing spot for the socially elite as well as a convenient starting point for adventurers seeking the awe-inspiring Himalayas. Enough of the pamphlet talk...
The Singalila Ridge Trek has become a favorite for those willing to try the elements for 5 days. After getting the run around by every travel agency in Darjeeling, Misha and I opted to skip the "organized" trek for the seemingly more adventurous mode of the "unorganized" trek...cheaper too. We're not so naive to believe we could handle a 5 day trek on the Nepali border, averaging 3000m plus, without a guide, but the porter/cook didn't seem necessary.
After a 6am wake-up we hopped some local shared taxis and rode them through the fog and rain and ominous heights leading to Manay Bhanjang, Singalila's starting point. There we logged our passports with the Indian Army, a task frequently required throughout the hike, and hired a Sherpa through the Singalila Park.
I'm not going to give a play-by-play of the rest, but the first 7km were straight up and both Misha and I were having second thoughts. From there on we got the pace of the trek. We walk, mostly climb, for 4 hours, then stop in a small village for tea/lunch, then continue on for the 2-3 hours, until dinner. The trek is set so every 7km-15km there is a small town, either to eat or sleep in. Our days went as followed:
Day 1: Jeep from Darjeeling (2100m) to Manay Bhanjang (2134m), hike to Tumling/Tonglu (3070m)
Distance Covered by foot: 17km (all climbing)
Surprise of the day: We were well aware that the trek follows the Nepali border. We were not aware that we would be crossing into Nepal on more than one occasion. We spent our first night of the trek in Nepal. No, we didn't need visas. Yes, it's legal.
Day 2: Tumling to Sandakphu (3636m)
Distance Covered: 24km (some flat, lotta climbing)
Sandakphu is the highest point of the climb and offers amazing views of the Himalayas, alas the fog/clouds didn't clear.
Day 3: Sandakphu to Molley (3250m)
Distance Covered: 15km (short day)
In the morning I was lucky enough to glimpse Kangchenjunga and Everest, but minutes later the clouds rolled back in.
Imagine yourself 3000m up, thin air, and for 3 days straight skim milk fog fading to 2% at the worst with a constant stream of cold mountain rain and cold mountain air and only occasional fires to get you through the night. It's not a pretty picture and seeing as Day 4 was the last chance to get some views, we were increasingly nervous to be in the precarious position of hiking the Himalayas without ever seeing them.
Day 4: Molley to Sabargram (3536m) to Molley to Sri Khola (2450m)
Distance Covered: 20km (down baby)
Surprise of the Day: After spending the night without ever seeing a fire and constantly waking with pain because wood is hard and some creature out the window wouldn't leave us alone, Tserdin (our Sherpa) woke us at 430am with the news of clear skies. We dressed and backtracked and feasted our eyes on 4 of the 5 tallest mountains in the world, Lhotse (8516m), Kangchenjunga (8586m), K2 (8611m), and Everest (8850m). It was a sight no picture could describe.
Day 5: Sri Khola to Rimbick (2286m) to Darjeeling
Distance Covered by foot: 8km
Surprise of the Day: An 80km jeep ride to Darjeeling, that took 5hrs, and held 25 people...with only 16 inside. More on that later.
On the trail we were surrounded by yaks...not much to say about it, except I couldn't stop taking their photos. Yaks, cool.
Some would complain about the bad weather, but waking up for sunrise after 3 days of seeing only footsteps in the mud then finally viewing all that was always before us was a gift worth waiting for.
Sorry for mostly business but it seemed the best way of tackling our favorite 5 days of the trip. I'll put as many photos as a can throughout the next couple of days and when I develop the 35mm film I'll get it on here too.
-sam
The former northeastern hill station of the British empire, recognized early on as the perfect place for a sanatorium, hosts the highest altitude tea plantations in the world and breathtaking views of the Himalayas - if you're granted clear skies. Oddly distinct from its fellow West Bengal city, Kolkata, there's little left to wonder why the majority population in the hills seek separate statehood. Sharing little in common, if anything at all, with the Bengali majority of West Bengal, the Nepalese centered culture of the Hills has sought political identity through the Ghorkaland movement leading to civil unrest that sadly lead to violence on more than one occasion. Fueled by Nepali immigrants via the Indo-Nepali Treaty of 1950, the distrust of their Bengali statesmen in Kolkata, and the flexible histories of the Hills, Darjeeling, along with surrounding areas, have become a hot bed of political unrest that perennially try the Democratic ideal of Self Determination. Despite the controversies, Darjeeling remains a vacationing spot for the socially elite as well as a convenient starting point for adventurers seeking the awe-inspiring Himalayas. Enough of the pamphlet talk...
The Singalila Ridge Trek has become a favorite for those willing to try the elements for 5 days. After getting the run around by every travel agency in Darjeeling, Misha and I opted to skip the "organized" trek for the seemingly more adventurous mode of the "unorganized" trek...cheaper too. We're not so naive to believe we could handle a 5 day trek on the Nepali border, averaging 3000m plus, without a guide, but the porter/cook didn't seem necessary.
After a 6am wake-up we hopped some local shared taxis and rode them through the fog and rain and ominous heights leading to Manay Bhanjang, Singalila's starting point. There we logged our passports with the Indian Army, a task frequently required throughout the hike, and hired a Sherpa through the Singalila Park.
I'm not going to give a play-by-play of the rest, but the first 7km were straight up and both Misha and I were having second thoughts. From there on we got the pace of the trek. We walk, mostly climb, for 4 hours, then stop in a small village for tea/lunch, then continue on for the 2-3 hours, until dinner. The trek is set so every 7km-15km there is a small town, either to eat or sleep in. Our days went as followed:
Day 1: Jeep from Darjeeling (2100m) to Manay Bhanjang (2134m), hike to Tumling/Tonglu (3070m)
Distance Covered by foot: 17km (all climbing)
Surprise of the day: We were well aware that the trek follows the Nepali border. We were not aware that we would be crossing into Nepal on more than one occasion. We spent our first night of the trek in Nepal. No, we didn't need visas. Yes, it's legal.
Day 2: Tumling to Sandakphu (3636m)
Distance Covered: 24km (some flat, lotta climbing)
Sandakphu is the highest point of the climb and offers amazing views of the Himalayas, alas the fog/clouds didn't clear.
Day 3: Sandakphu to Molley (3250m)
Distance Covered: 15km (short day)
In the morning I was lucky enough to glimpse Kangchenjunga and Everest, but minutes later the clouds rolled back in.
Imagine yourself 3000m up, thin air, and for 3 days straight skim milk fog fading to 2% at the worst with a constant stream of cold mountain rain and cold mountain air and only occasional fires to get you through the night. It's not a pretty picture and seeing as Day 4 was the last chance to get some views, we were increasingly nervous to be in the precarious position of hiking the Himalayas without ever seeing them.
Day 4: Molley to Sabargram (3536m) to Molley to Sri Khola (2450m)
Distance Covered: 20km (down baby)
Surprise of the Day: After spending the night without ever seeing a fire and constantly waking with pain because wood is hard and some creature out the window wouldn't leave us alone, Tserdin (our Sherpa) woke us at 430am with the news of clear skies. We dressed and backtracked and feasted our eyes on 4 of the 5 tallest mountains in the world, Lhotse (8516m), Kangchenjunga (8586m), K2 (8611m), and Everest (8850m). It was a sight no picture could describe.
Day 5: Sri Khola to Rimbick (2286m) to Darjeeling
Distance Covered by foot: 8km
Surprise of the Day: An 80km jeep ride to Darjeeling, that took 5hrs, and held 25 people...with only 16 inside. More on that later.
On the trail we were surrounded by yaks...not much to say about it, except I couldn't stop taking their photos. Yaks, cool.
Some would complain about the bad weather, but waking up for sunrise after 3 days of seeing only footsteps in the mud then finally viewing all that was always before us was a gift worth waiting for.
Sorry for mostly business but it seemed the best way of tackling our favorite 5 days of the trip. I'll put as many photos as a can throughout the next couple of days and when I develop the 35mm film I'll get it on here too.
-sam
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